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Exhausted from bad exhaust? – Good materials make good exhaust

Oct 24, 2013 |

Exhausted from bad exhaust? – Good materials make good exhaust

                The sound and looks of an exhaust system are just as important as any other system on a vehicle.  Having the sound you want can give your car a whole new personality, and add to the character of your ride.  Avoiding leaks, rattles, and vibrations are essential to hearing the full effects of your exhaust system rather than hearing the noise it creates.

                An exhaust system starts at the manifolds and headers.  Quality parts are just the beginning.  The first step is to ensure you have a clean and true sealing surface from the head to the manifold.  This involves an inspection of the parts being installed. Big grooves, cracks, and uneven sealing surface will be sure to cause a leak, so taking the proper precautions to seal and ensure bolts are tight will help keep away those annoying header and manifold leaks.

leaks caused from poor quality exhaust header  

                Headers are notorious for leaking caused bolts backing off. That’s why it’s a good idea to use locking systems like Stage 8 Locking Fasteners manufactures.  These are designed to prevent backing off and will help seal thing for the long term.

                The type of material used is also crucial to keeping an exhaust system working well long term.  Aluminized and stainless tubing are the best routes to go.  Aluminized pipe is very common and is the lesser expensive option.  Stainless is an even better way to go, but the down fall is cost.  Stainless exhaust can be polished to a shine so this is a great option to add to the underside of your show car.  Not every shop will bend and weld stainless exhaust systems as it uses special benders and highly trained welders. 

                The premade exhaust system is something that can be very enticing.  The pre-bent system comes with its down falls.   In many cases these systems are poor fitting and require additional bending and welding.  True “bolt on” systems are hard to come by and don’t compare to a system that is made right there at the car.   For the “do it yourselfer” a pre-bent exhaust system can come in handy, but you should always proceed with caution when purchasing and installing these systems.

exhaust in a box for a 72 Camaro         1972 Camaro exhaust in a box

                A quality exhaust system is also properly secured.  In a factory restoration, original style hangers and brackets are used.  In a custom application, the system needs to be secured with plenty of clearance from floors, cross members, fluid lines, and axels.  As the engine torques and vibrates, or axels move, clearances change which can easily cause annoying rattles and vibration.  All hangers and bracket need to be rubber insulated with enough play and movement to clear any solid surfaces.

Custom exhaust system

                Whether you want you ride quite or loud, in order to enjoy the sound of that engine, you will need to make your exhaust system free of leaks and rattles.  This is easily done by inspecting part, securing mufflers and pipes, and making sure you have plenty of clearance.  When broken down its pretty simple stuff, but having an exhaust system custom made is always a better choice over your pre-fabricated, pre-made, off the shelf exhaust in a box.


A Driver quality isn’t low quality

Oct 22, 2013 | , ,

Driver quality doesn’t mean low quality

                Not everyone wants a complete custom vehicle with every option and every detail addressed with a fine tooth comb.  Many are in the market for a “Driver” quality job.  The fact of the matter is sometimes the only difference between the “Driver” quality and “Show” quality come in the details.  Details are what can take a car over the top and addressing some of these details, will surely make you “driver” stand out.

                Driver quality does not have to mean low quality.  Many people feel as though by describing a job to be driver quality it suggests that many systems do not need to be fixed.  This can be true many cases, but in many others not addressing issues may not only be ineffective to cost, but eventually become a safety hazard.  I will list a few of these things that can be often overlooked when “Driver” quality is suggested.

73 Mustang ready for a driver restoration.

               

Paint and body is the number one thing that is often thought to reduce cost.  This is true in many cases.  An additional block sand and primer, or re-sanding and clearing to give a deeper gloss, or taking the time to make sure every little paint imperfection is removed are some of the things that can be done to take a paint job to the next level. 

                Stripping a car is another factor that is sometimes questioned for a driver quality job.  Many people feel as though there paint looks pretty nice and just needs to be buffed out.  This may be the case, but if a paint job is in order, the only way to fix it is to fix it right.  Meaning that the paint still needs to be stripped, rust still needs to be fixed, and dents and dings need to be straightened.  That little ding now is only highlighted by a fresh paint job.

74 Mercedes Driver restoration being stripped.

The under body is another place that is often to be thought of as a place that can be left untouched for a driver quality job.  In many cases the under body can be totally left alone, in many others rust in the floor boards prevents from leaving these areas original. Not repairing a rusty floor board and making the paint look new is not the smartest choice. 

                When it comes to the mechanical system on a “driver”, main concerns should be safety and reliability.  Safety is usually overlooked first.  This includes things like suspension bushings, rusty brake lines, or old wiring.  These are all systems than can be potentially hazardous if not addressed.  If a vehicle is being driven on a regular basis, it needs to be much more than just functional.

Rotton leaf spring bushing that can potentially cause a hazard

                Reliability is also another aspect of a driver.  The term Driver comes from the description that someone wants to “drive” the vehicle on a regular basis.  This being said, reliability is also key.  Things like major oil leaks, rebuilding carbs and fuel systems, and ensuring the charging system is working properly are essential for ensuring the vehicle will start easily every time.

                The main goal is to make your vehicle fully functional and looking presentable.  A driver restoration can be a great way to get your classic or muscle car back on the road.  But a driver restoration is still a “restoration” and repairing things right, fixing them to last is still at the top of the list.  A driver restoration is much more than just making a vehicle functional.  It takes smart thinking and good planning to ensure the investment is worth it.

Cj5 jeep


How to Choose a color for your restoration.

Oct 21, 2013 | , ,

Thinking about changing colors – What to consider.

Choosing a paint color for you restoration can be quite a struggle.  With subtle differences from one color to the next, finding that perfect color takes a little bit of patience and home work.  These are a few tips to help you choose what fits, what looks good, and what will ultimately make you happy.

The first place to start is the original color.  Depending on how you plan to restore you ride, you should at least consider the original color.  Many older vehicles have an identification tag or plate that will give you information about the original color.  When you can’t find this information, you will need a visual reference.  Even an old rusty car may have some of the original paint under a bolt or a piece of trim, but the best reference needs to be on the body its self.  Bolt on parts like doors and fenders are easily replaceable, and may have been replaced throughout its life. Using the body shell is your safest bet when it comes to discovering your original color.

describe the image1970 Mach 1 Mustang

When deciding on the original color, the first thing to consider is how original you plan to keep the car.  If you have an all numbers matching Super Sport Chevelle, it may not be the best decision to change colors.  On the other had if you have a 6 cylinder Malibu, and plan make some significant changes to the drive train and interior, changing colors wouldn’t be a big deal.

Varying from the original color may cause additional work that may not have been considered. To properly change colors, door jams, engine compartments, and even the insides of quarter panels in the truck need to be painted.  For this to happen, panels need to be removed, and proper prep work need to be done to ensure the paint in the jambs holds up as long as the exterior. The goal with a color change is to completely eliminate any signs of the old color, whether it’s around bolt heads , on hinges, or even in the interior,  a color change needs to be complete for things to look correct.

describe the image1948 Nash Ambassador

When changing from the original color, I always try to use a color from within the same era.  Using color charts from the same year make and model is a good reference point.  Finding what alternative colors could have been used on the car from the factory. 

The next step to take is finding colors from different makes and models from around the same time frame.  Your color can still be era correct, but may not be a specific color designated to that car.  The older color chip books can usually be found at a local paint distributor.

1987 Silverado1966 C-10

 

Another place to look for your new color is on the new and used car lots.  Take a stroll through a dealership finding what catches your eye. Take down the year, make, and model, if you know where to look a paint code is always helpful. 

After you have come up with your ideas, have your restoration shop mix and spray you samples.  We paint individual 4” x 6” cards for samples.  These cards can be compared side by side, tilted and turned, and looked at in the sun and shade to give you comparisons from one color or shade to the next.

Paint spray out cards showing the subtle difference

Overall a color change is up to your individual taste.  There’s no reason you should go through the steps of restoration or paint job and not get what you want.  This biggest thing to do is rely on the opinions of the paint professionals, and make sure you eliminate what you don’t like before you decide on what you like.  A paint color is about personal opinion, so get what you want.

1972 Dodge Demon


Ford F-100 Restomod truck –

Oct 18, 2013 | ,

64 Ford F-100 – Muscle Truck – Project update

 

                It’s been a little while since the last time we updated the progress on the truck.  Since we knew we were going to have to repair a substantial amount of rust we wanted to make sure our replacement sheet metal was lined out and ready to go.  Most of it is here and we’re ready to rock and roll. 

                Before we go cutting this frame in half we need to make sure the body is solid.  We will be fitting the frame to the body and not the body to the frame.  This means we need to have a solid body before we try and modify any part of the frame.  In order to have a solid body we must first repair the existing rust.   This means floor boards, cab mounts, A-pillars, rocker panels, and cab corners.

64 F-100 with only a little paint left in place

                Stripping the truck unveiled a ton of rust.  Most of which was just filled with body filler. (A common theme among poorly restored vehicles).  We used three different sources for our sheet metal parts.  LMC, Mac’s Antique Auto Parts, and NPD were among the sources.

                We’ve started this process by first stripping and sandblasting the outer shell of the body, and the underside of the floor.  This revealed all of the hidden damage, while also exposing the problems we already saw.

1964 Ford F-100 rusty floors

64 Ford F-100 after sandblastingReally bad patch work on the floor of the 64 F-100

                The next steps involved etch primer, and sealer to prevent any flash rust on the good surfaces.  The etch primer bites into the bare metal giving a strong surface for any other materials that will be applied.  The sealer creates a non porous coating to prevent any moisture penetration.

                We are not in the process of removing some of the severely rusted panels.  Removing these reveals even more rust that will be media blasted before any repairs are made.  Once the rust is removed we can start fitting, fabricating, and welding our new panels in place.   Check back soon for more progress.

64 F-100 ready for some more blasting  64 F100 cutting out more rust


Automotive plumbing – bending & routing the smart way

Oct 17, 2013 |

A clean fuel and brake system are essential to long term performance.  In order to keep these systems clean brake and fuel lines often need to be replaced.  In the aftermarket world companies like Classic Tube and The Right Stuff Detailing manufacture pre-bent kits for vast array of vehicles.  These kits can come in OEM steel or stainless steel.  Depending on your ultimate goal your decision is completely up to you. 

An old line tapped into a new. NOT a good idea!

In the event that your vehicle’s lines are not available and you are forced to bend you own, bending and routing your lines properly is extremely important.  Having your lines routed properly will reduce the risk of failure due to kinks, snags, or leaks.  These are few things to consider while plumbing your restoration.  They will help you understand the basics of plumbing and routing.

The first thing to know understand is that links and couplers are never a good idea.  These are just one additional are that can potentially cause a leak, especially when it comes brake lines.  Brake lines can operate at pressures of 1600- 1800 psi, and at this pressure, any flare or coupler can be susceptible to leaking. The solution to this is buying your line in long rolls rather than pre flared straight sticks.  This will give you a much longer run of line before a flare is necessary.

Roll of fuel line, using old line for a template

Clean bends and turns are always a plus.  There is no substitute for a good bending tool.  Not using a good tool will increase your risk of a kinked or collapsed line.  Tubing benders can be fairly inexpensive and will be your best friend with keeping your plumbing clean.  Sharp turns and angles can be easily made using a good bender, without ruining your tube trying to bend things by hand. 

Properly securing your brake and fuel lines are important to good plumbing.  These lines can easily be the source for rattles and noises.  As the line is not completely rigid and dangling or loose lines can shake and rattle.  Loose lines are also hazards for getting snagged.  Whether you have a frame dragging low rider or a lifted off road truck, There are always hazards that could possibly snag a brake or fuel line causing catastrophic damage.  Make sure you fuel and brake lines are tucked to the bottom of the vehicle at tight as possible and secured clamps that hold the line tight without crushing.

Be aware of moving parts, especially on axels and suspension.  Far too often we see vehicles with smashed lines and poorly working brakes because the installer did not take into account the travel of the suspension.  Obviously flexible hoses need to be used on these moving suspension parts, but hard lines along rear ends can become crushed by low hanging exhaust.  Front rubber lines can be crushed in a coil spring or become stretched and stressed during turning.  When attaching your lines, be sure to consider the travel of moving parts.

Indifferent areas a hard line may extend from a fully stationary point to a point that has slight movement or flex.  (Such as a master cylinder to a frame sub frame bolted in with rubber mount to the body.)  In many cases there is vibration and movement between the two mounting surfaces.  Between these surfaces is it best to allow for your hard line to have some play.  This play can be done by adding “coils” or “S” shapes in lines.  These shapes allow for more flexibility of the line to prevent excessive wear, bending, or splitting of the steel line.

Coils are used to remove some of the flex between the body and frame of a 1966 C-10

Overall, plumbing is mostly common sense. Taking the time to make things look right and perform right is the key.  Sloppy  new lines are not only ugly, but are unsafe and unprofessional.

Replacing floor pans – One piece pans vs. patches

Oct 16, 2013 | , ,

Patch a pan or replace a floor.

         A difficult decision with any restoration comes in the matter of patching a floor pan or replacing the entire floor. This goes for a cabin floor board or a trunk pan, both involve the same types of labor so the rules generally apply for both.  Making the repairs the right way will not only improve the look of the job, but reduce labor and cost.

Over the years I have seen patched up floor boards that could have been replaced with a one piece floor for less cost and less labor.  On the contrary I have seen one piece floor boards replaced so horribly that the benefits of the one piece pan were negated by the poor quality installation.  These are just a few tips on how to make that decision. 

The first thing realize that when you decide to repair your rusty floor, you need to understand that those few rust holes that you see now are only going to get bigger as you clean things up.  Just removing carpet along can take a quarter sized holes and turn it in to a dollar sized cavity.  The thing to take from this is to not be afraid to change directions.  The original small patch may turn into a multitude of other repairs and the decision on how to repair the damage should be based upon the repair itself, not by the parts lying around, or amount of labor already invested.  If you have made it this far, there should be nothing stopping you from doing things the best way possible.

Upon an original assessment of the situation, you must consider parts availability.  What parts are available? Cost of those options? Does the part give you exactly what you need?  In many cases your options are limited, but in many others, partial pans, half of a pan or a full one piece pan is available depending on your make and model.

                To go through the list these are a few of the benefits and draw backs of each type of pan.  I’ll start with the basic floor patch panel.  These pans usually cover the most common areas that rust on you particular vehicle. The patch panels only cover some of the most common areas that rust on you particular vehicles.  They are meant to only use a portion or sections of a panel.  Yes, you can use the entire thing in some cases, but the overall fit and detail may not be quite right.  A benefit of these pieces is in many cases can be installed with the body still on the frame or while the vehicle is still together.  Now you have to take in consideration the fuel lines or brake lines and cleaning, sealing and painting the underside.  The patches are used for smaller areas and work great in many cases, but when you get into using the entire piece it may be time to consider moving up to a half pan.

Smaller rusted area on this 80 ElCamino1980 Elcamino repaired with patch panel

                Floor pan halves are usually not true halves. In most cases the halves don’t make a whole.  They are more like larger versions of just a standard floor patch panel.  The benefit to these is the coverage area.  They can cover a much larger area keeping two patches down to one.  In some cases these larger panels may be all that is available and an entire one piece pan is not an option.

                Full one piece pans are great. They require less finish work than a patch.  In most cases they attach in the factory location.  A full pan does take extra effort to install when compared to a single patch panel, but it will save time when compared to cutting welding and fining multiple patch panels.  Full one piece pans do come with a higher part cost, but is well worth it in time savings and quality when the option presents itself.

1966 Mustang full floor pan1966 Mustang full floor pan

                The task of replacing an entire floor pan can be quite overwhelming.  Having the right tools and preparing yourself for more that what you had initially intended will ensure you make the right decision. A floor pan is the foundation for all of the body and making sure you car or truck is solid from the ground up will ensure your starting out on the right foot.


Document your restoration progress

Oct 15, 2013 |

Document your progress

 

One of the most important parts of a restoration is documenting progress.  This documentation takes place throughout the job and can be a life saver in the end.  You never know when you might need to refer to an old photo or note you have made to make sure you’re going back together the same way it came apart.  These at first seem like common knowledge, but without the reinforcement of those thoughts, you may just pass up the perfect opportunity to save some time down the road.

The smallest of details can make all of the difference, whether it’s the configuration of a throttle bracket, the routing of the heater hoses, or the order in which you took it apart.  The first thing to do before you take anything apart is to create a photo database.  This will give you a starting reference point.  Take pictures from all angles, close ups, and wide angle shots.  These not only help with getting things back together, they will help you remember what parts were missing and what was already broken.  A terrible feeling is finding a broken part wondering if it was you who damaged it in storage. 

Just taking pictues the configuration on a pedal assembly of the 70 Coronet

                When restoring any car from top to bottom, there can be thousands, of parts, pieces and screws.  There is no way even the smartest of people could keep track of all this in their head.  This is why it can be extremely helpful to take notes along the way.   They can be as simple or as detailed as you want, but should represent the important things you noticed along the way.  Just a “broken, bad, or missing” parts list can be the difference in months of down time waiting for one small miscellaneous part. 

missing/broken parts sheet

                Your notes can also serve as you personal instruction manual on how the car came apart. Writing down things like the specific order the trim needs to be installed, or “leave bolts loose until weather strip is install”.  These simple notes can be your guiding light as you work your way from a bare shell to a finished product.

                Tagging, bagging, and labeling you parts is one of the most important parts of any rebuild, especially when working on more than one project at a time.  Labeling baggies of bolts, screws, and parts makes finding that specialty trim screw that much easier to spot.  All you will need is some zip lock bags in assorted sizes, a little masking tape, and a Sharpie marker.

simple lables and markings will help you inventory and document your issues

                Taking pictures of your progress will help you in step of the way.  From tear down, to body repairs, to final assembly, having a photographic journal will not only help put the pieces back together, but will give you the satisfaction of showing everyone else how far it’s come.

1969 Ford Mustang before1969 Mach 1 Ford Mustang


What’s a rat rod? – Our definition

Oct 11, 2013 | , ,

What’s a “Rat Rod”?

The term “Rat Rod” is something that has not yet been defined within the automotive world.  Industry leaders, general car guys, and builders all have different opinions on what a rat rod really is.  This being said I’m just another person weighing in on the conversation.  My views are what most of us here at Precision believe and will almost fight for.  We are passionate about what we do, we are passionate about the vehicles we build, and we want to make sure that every car we build is built with high standard of quality, safety, and reliability.

1958 Chevy pickup - Is this the makeings of a "Rat Rod"

Rat Rods are generally can be described as wild, over the top, inexpensive, so ugly there cool, and built from the scraps of anything lying around.  Usually unsafe, unreliable, and probably shouldn’t be on the road.  In my opinion this is a pretty fair description.  Safety, quality, and reliability are words rarely associated with a rat rod.  If something is built with a high standard of quality does that eliminate it from the “Rat Rod” category?  If something is built with safety in mind does that eliminate it from the “Rat Rod” category? Is the term “rat rod” a term of endearment or is it just another category of build?

There are back yard mechanics and car guys who just try to slap a piece of junk together, completely disregarding any type of standards.  They conveniently call it a “rat rod” and get loads of attention because of this “I don’t care” rebel attitude.  One can say that this is OK.  One can say the creativeness, originality, and resourcefulness is something to be respected.  That I will agree to.  What I can’t agree to is the total lack of care when it comes to safety and quality.  If a person wants to build the ugliest piece of junk out of a pile of old parts that’s understandable, bad taste can be overlooked. But refusing to meet a certain level of quality and safety cannot.  Overlooking or disregarding a potential safety hazard is dangerous and should absolutely never be tolerated within the world of hot rodding.

The rat rods idea of rust repair is in full force in the back of the cab on this 58 ChevyThe rat rodders idea of a cab mount. Classy!!!

Something else that gets mixed up in the “rat rod” debate is what shouldn’t be included into this category.  Vehicles that have flat paint, highly customized vehicles, little or no chrome, pitted or patina chrome, or just an unfinished car get unfairly categorized as a “rat rod”.   If a car doesn’t have shiny paint and chrome does not automatically make it a “rat rod”.

What’s in a name?  Well… everything!!!  Until the days where junk is considered junk and not just put into a category because it looks a certain way, does a name matter.  So the question still remains – What’s a “rat rod”?   For now a “rat rod”, to me, is considered a home built vehicle, built by unqualified technicians, trying to just make a statement with a disregard to anything else.  On the flip side of this, it doesn’t mean every “rat rod” out there is just plain junk.  Considerations have to be made to the level of quality and the ultimate safety and drivability of any vehicle.  As some point a car has to make its way out of the bottomless pit know as a “rat rod” and truly be considered a real hot rod, custom, or cruiser.

This 2008 Challenger in some peoples minds would be considered a "rat rod"

 


St. Louis Museum of Transportation 1946 Street Car

Sep 23, 2013 |

St. Louis Museum of Transportation 1946
Street Car
 
 
Here at Precision Restorations we have a passion and a love for all things that go, from motorcycles, to cars, to trucks, to planes and trains.  This is why we were grateful to help …

Basic sheetmetal alignment tips for a muscle car restoration.

Sep 20, 2013 |

Poorly aligned panels will stand out even on the nicest of paint jobs.  These are a few basic sheetmetal alignment tips  will help make your gaps nice and straight.

Poorly aligned fender on a 1972 Olds 442

Don’t call it done until everything is fit.  Often the inexperienced person will take one panel at a time and spend hours trying to make it fit the adjacent panel.  This can be a huge time waster as one thing may affect the other.  For example when fitting the front clip on a muscle car, an adjustment to your right fender may work its way back to the necessary adjustment to the left door.

 I like to start with my doors.  With many cars of the muscle car era, adjustments are almost unlimited. I will get my doors aligned to the quarter panel as best as possible. Making sure the gap on both sides are even with each other.

Alignment on this 1972 Buick GS door is great even with the aftermarket quarter panel

 I will next move to the fenders.  Fit one, then the other.  Matching them to the door making sure both door to fender gaps are even as possible with each other.  Fitting fenders can be tricky, just like the doors, the adjustments can be almost limit less.  Over the years I have seen many untouched vehicles come from the factory with shims, so don’t be afraid to use some.  Obviously the fewer the better, but they will serve a purpose.  When aligning fenders know that even if you have pre fit you panels before paint it can be the order in which you tightened the bolts that made it fit in the first place.  This means that even if you mark all of your shims and bolt locations the order in which you tighten the bolts can affect the alignment.  Fenders sometimes have to squeeze and contort to match its adjacent panel so patience is crucial.

1972 Chevelle

I will then move to the hood. The hood will be the tell tale sign of how well everything is fitting.  The core support may need shifting. Adjustments up or down, forward and backward, and side to side may be necessary.  The adjustments that are necessary may affect how you need to readjust you fenders and doors, with possibly tweaking something here or there.

Once a hood is fit, and the other panels are also in their final position, all bolts need to be rechecked for tightness.  During the fitment process things get forgotten, and now is the time to double check your work.  Never try and install any trim until all panels are fit and if possible give your weatherstrip a test fit before securing everything into place. Trim and weatherstrip will only get in your way and cause possible problems if installed before all panels are aligned.

1980 El Camino

One thing to remember to when reinstalling, have patients!  Take your time and be careful.  Use plenty of tape when putting painted panels in place.  Pre-fitting panels before body and paint will help the process of reinstalling painted panels and don’t be surprised if it takes a few more or less shims on the final go round.

1966 Mustang on a frame alignment jig


Clips and Clamps and Brackets, Oh my!! – Factory Restoration

Sep 13, 2013 |

What separates your high quality restoration from your run of the mill rebuild is the detail.  The details are what can give you those few extra points at the show or just impress the other guys in the club with that detailed restoration.  These clips, clamps, and brackets are what will make all the difference when it comes to bringing your classic or muscle car back to show room condition.

                One of the difference makers can be the type of fuel line, brake line, or wire loom clips.   These clips come in many different forms and can have variations of the same clip on the same car.  Many of them can be color coded as to placement on your vehicle, from different shades of blue to a flat or glossy red the factory correct colors will take some research.  Luckily many aftermarket companies have done this for us already.  Stores like Eckler’s or Classic industries offer these fuel and brake line clips in kits that come color coded to factory specs.   If this is not the case, and you want to put that added touch to your classic, it’s recommended to get in contact with your local or national car club.  The clubs will help you find those resources that you need to make those details pop.

This brake and fuel line clip set can be purchased from Classic industries for a Camaro

                Another Item to consider can be one of the simplest things, hose clamps.  Throughout the years there have been many different types of clamps used.  They come in many different styles from your standard worm screw hose clamp to a non pinching fuel injection clamp.  Having the correct clamp in the correct location will not only ensure you are taking care of these details, but also using the most effective clamp for your application.  When just your ordinary worm screw clamp just won’t do, the aftermarket companies may have the solution.  For some common vehicles they have kits available, and other vehicles the hose clamps can be purchased individually.  A factory correct restoration is never 100% complete without considering these little details.

Wire ring style hose clampTower style radiator or heater hose clampHigh pressure power steering hose clamp

                The correct brackets are one of the other detail items to consider.  These can be anything from your accessory brackets on the front of the engine to the small bracket that holds your heater hoses in place.  These brackets can be large or small, but the small ones can give you those last few finishing touches you are looking form.  In many cases some of the smaller retainers and bracket can get broke or just go missing after years of repairs to be merely replaced by zip ties.  Once again these aftermarket companies have done the research to know what you need and what you’re missing.  One of the best ways to learn this information is to look at some unfinished and un-restored projects.  Even though these cars may not be that show quality award winner, they do often have these little pieces still intact. 

Corvette hose retainer bracket

                When it comes to trying to recreate what the factory did 30, 40, or 50 years ago the aftermarket companies have done a lot of the leg work for us.  Discovering and reproducing these detailed parts that make all the difference.  Nothing compares to nose to the grindstone research.  Within just a few hours of internet research and a few phone calls you may be on track to finding the guidance you need to put your classic car, muscle car, or antique vehicle back to look it had rolling off the lot.


1970 Bronco – Driver Restoration – Delivery Day

Aug 27, 2013 |

We sent another restoration home on Friday.  This 1970 Bronco came in for some mechanical and body repairs along with some touch ups on the interior.
The mechanical repairs included the repairing of some oil leaks and transmission leaks.  We …

1966 Ford Mustang – Project update

Aug 13, 2013 | ,

We have completed a lot of work since the last update.   The body has undergone some serious changes.  The shell was completely striped and sand blasted, then etch primed and sealed.  From here we are starting to remove the quarter …

Which stitch is right for me? – Custom vs Stock upholstery

Aug 12, 2013 | , ,

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To go along with any restoration many questions may arise. One of which will be the decision to go with a handmade interior, or a pre-sewn ready made parts.  Quality on upholstery, just like everything else, can cover the spectrum.  Weather you are looking for custom car upholstery or a factory stock  interior, knowing the benefits and down falls of both will help you decide “Which stitch is right for me?”

Many classics, muscle cars, and antiques have companies that make seat covers, headliners, and many other parts in large quantities from patterns that they may have had for years.  Just like many things that are mass produced, getting  top notch quality can be hard to come by. That being said it is not impossible to find good quality parts that will fit and last.

Even though the combinations are limitless, there are three basic ways to go when it comes to the upholstery work during a restoration.  Factory Stock with ready made parts, factory stock with custom sewn parts, and full on custom are the areas that I will cover.  It will be up to you to decide what you want to do.

Factory Stock with ready made parts – The restoration world is abundant with manufactures of readymade parts.  These parts are either mass produced or made to order.  They are usually based upon either factory specification, an old cover or part that has been used to make patterns, or from patterns made from scratch using a test vehicle.  These parts (baring any blatant mistakes) will usually work for their intended purpose with one major down fall – QUALITY!

            Ready made parts serve a great purpose in the restoration industry, they are (by comparison to other things) fairly inexpensive, usually pretty easy to get a hold of and will usually look just like the factory did.  As these parts have not been made to fit your exact seat, or your exact car variations of patterns and fit can arise. Ready-mades can be baggy; they can be too tight where they won’t fit, they can be sewn wrong and not line up.  This is not always the case but it is a risk that one will run when deciding to go with the ready made parts. 

Loose fitting and uneven coners from a ready-made seat coverCommon bunching on a ready made seat cover.

 

 

 

 1969 Mach 1 Mustang with ready-made interior

            Custom sewn factory stock – This is a great option for the person who wants a top quality interior and wants to keep that factory look.  Differing from ready-made parts, stitching up covers to fit your seat, your foam, your roof, and not every other one like it ensures the best fit possible.  Foam in seats can break down and seat covers can shrink so making patterns based off of these old parts would not do any good.  When new covers are made each panel or piece is cut and fit individually.  This ensures a snug, even, and “factory fit.  Doing this eliminates wrinkles do to loose covers, eliminates mis-aligned corners as the cover is patterned of what is there, not something down the road. It also eliminates crooked lines as the covers and parts are made to fit not made to ship. 

            As each part is made individually and sewn by hand it requires more labor, which in turn leads to more cost.  Other than cost, another down fall of having a factory cover custom made is finding the right person to do it.  Top level upholstery work is hard to come by, and getting the fit, quality, and look you want may not be a job that any upholsterer can handle.  So when getting this done make sure you have vetted this person thoroughly to know that the extra cost involved in having these made will be worth it in the end.

Custom sewn factory stock cover for a 1975 Cadilliac Eldorado

 

Full on Custom – Oh the possibilities!!  Full custom is whatever you can dream up.  Styles from elegant to wild, and every color of the rainbow in any material that you wish.  Full custom can be anything you want, but it does not mean you have to go to extremes.  A full custom interior may keep the same shapes and basic form as a factory stock interior but may have things like, different material, different patterns, or different foam density.  These seemingly small changes can make a huge difference when it comes to the look and feel of an interior.

            Custom interiors are awesome and look great but it may not be right for your application. If you wanna keep things stock making these changes may not be the right way to go.  Depending on your taste it may not be something that is universally liked so when you decide to do a custom interior, think of your long term plans. As with anything custom, time is money.  Making parts, pieces, and a design from scratch involves extra time that will require a larger budget.

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To sum things up here are the pros and cons of each. 

Factory stock with ready made parts – The pros:  least expensive option, usually readily available, less time involved.   The cons: chance on poor fit, color options can be limited, and lower cost may not be worth it

Custom sewn Factory stock – The pros:  high quality fit, larger array of colors and materials.  The cons:  cost will be higher, may be a longer time frame

Full Custom – The pros: have it they way you want, one of a kind look.  The cons – most expensive option, may not suit everyone’s taste and may make a tough selling point.

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Muscle Cars – Not your average test drive

Aug 9, 2013 |

Muscle cars wouldn’t be muscle cars without the muscle. High revs, hard shifts and lots of horsepower is the definition of  a muscle. So when it comes to a test drive, one must put their muscle through a not so average test drive.  No one wan…

Make it Happen!! – the first step of a classic car restoration

Aug 1, 2013 | , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

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Just for fun lets imagine you have a classic car that’s been sitting in a garage, in a field, or in a barn.  Its dirty, it’s dusty, and you’re pretty sure something’s been living in it.   You see it all the time and you think to yourself “I’m gonna fix that up someday”.  Year after year you keep telling yourself this, but your classic just sits and sits. You remember driving it not too long ago, but you start doing the math and  “That was 20 years ago!!” 

Well guess what, it’s never going  to come to life without a commitment to making it happen.  This is a common story.  Someone has every good intention of restoring their classic, but never takes that first step.  The first step is always the hardest.  Making that call to the restoration shop, or getting the estimate, or even just removing the boxes that are piled from hood to ceiling, is all it takes to get the ball rolling. Every restoration has to start somewhere and making that first step is just the beginning of making your memories come back to life.

1928 Ford Model A1928 Ford Model AA

Knowing who to call or where to go can be overwhelming in itself.  When undertaking your project you want to know that you’re given the right information.  A good relationship with a restoration shop is what will help you relax as you work through your project.  Open communication, honest answers, and accessibility will comfort you along the way.  The process and the memories of a restoration are just as important as the end result,  so developing this relationship is what will make every penny and minute worth it.

Presicion resized 6001969 Plymouth Roadrunner

I don’t want to say to call a tow truck and deliver your car to the shop right away, but when you have those thoughts of restoring that space taker in the garage, act on it!  The car isn’t getting any newer, parts aren’t getting any cheaper, and you’re not getting any younger.  So make the move, do your homework, and make it happen, because in just a short time the only thing you will be putting on your hood is a fresh coat of wax.

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