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Make it Happen!! – the first step of a classic car restoration

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Just for fun lets imagine you have a classic car that’s been sitting in a garage, in a field, or in a barn.  Its dirty, it’s dusty, and you’re pretty sure something’s been living in it.   You see it all the time and you think to yourself “I’m gonna fix that up someday”.  Year after year you keep telling yourself this, but your classic just sits and sits. You remember driving it not too long ago, but you start doing the math and  “That was 20 years ago!!” 

Well guess what, it’s never going  to come to life without a commitment to making it happen.  This is a common story.  Someone has every good intention of restoring their classic, but never takes that first step.  The first step is always the hardest.  Making that call to the restoration shop, or getting the estimate, or even just removing the boxes that are piled from hood to ceiling, is all it takes to get the ball rolling. Every restoration has to start somewhere and making that first step is just the beginning of making your memories come back to life.

1928 Ford Model A1928 Ford Model AA

Knowing who to call or where to go can be overwhelming in itself.  When undertaking your project you want to know that you’re given the right information.  A good relationship with a restoration shop is what will help you relax as you work through your project.  Open communication, honest answers, and accessibility will comfort you along the way.  The process and the memories of a restoration are just as important as the end result,  so developing this relationship is what will make every penny and minute worth it.

Presicion resized 6001969 Plymouth Roadrunner

I don’t want to say to call a tow truck and deliver your car to the shop right away, but when you have those thoughts of restoring that space taker in the garage, act on it!  The car isn’t getting any newer, parts aren’t getting any cheaper, and you’re not getting any younger.  So make the move, do your homework, and make it happen, because in just a short time the only thing you will be putting on your hood is a fresh coat of wax.

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Restoration Tip – The squish factor (using silicone sealant the right way)

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Even though your classic may look great, drive great, and run strong a couple small leaks can turn the underside of your hot rod into an unsightly mess.  That oil stain on your drive way is not the only place where you are going to find oil.  Small oil leaks never fix themselves, and they only get worse.  A common reason for these leaks can be a poor use of RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) silicone sealant.  These sealants can be over used to a point where they do more harm than good. In many classic car restoration shops the use of RTV silicone is common place when repacing un obtainable gaskets.  These are just a few tips to keep in mind when sealing an engine, transmission, or rear end.

 

 

Tip one – Never use silicone on a sensor.  The sealant can cause a poor ground, preventing correct readings. Teflon tape can also be a culprit to a poor grounded sensor.  When it comes to any type of electronic sensor, new ones usually have thread sealant applied.  It is best to avoid using any other than a very small amount of pipe thread sealant like Permatex’s Hi temp thread sealant.

Permatex RTV Silicone

Tip two – Never use a silicone sealant on any part of a fuel system.  Fuel vapors cause the silicone to lose its adhesive properties causing the sealant to fail. Gasoline also causes the silicone to break apart, if this starts to happen any piece could fall into the fuel system causing a blockage.  If absolutely necessary, a small amount of specialty fuel resistant sealant can be used on threaded fittings, but standard rtv silicone will NOT seal anything fuel related.  The most effective way to seal a fuel system is with tight, quality fittings and clamps, along with the proper o-rings and gaskets.

1987 Chevy w/ Ram Jet 350

Tip three – Never use an rtv silicone sealant on brake components.  Just as with fuel, the properties of the hydraulic brake lines will also cause the silicone to breakdown and fail.  Pieces coming off of the excess silicone can cause the braking system to become weak due to poor fluid flow.  Silicone sealant will also fail almost immediately.  The pressures of the hydraulic system will force right past any sealant.  There is no sealer that will hold up to these pressure.  The only way to seal a brake system is with the correct, tight fittings and quality components.

 

Tip four – Use in moderation.  Too much silicone can cause major problems. Even in the correct application, too much sealant will break off within the oiling or cooling system.  Within an oiling system the excess will eventually build up on the bottom of the oil pan possibly causing a clog in the oil pump.  This clog will lead to poor oil pressure and shortening the life of the engine or transmission. The cooling system is the same way; excess sealant can eventually build up causing poor coolant flow and in the most extreme case, cause over heating issues.  Both of these problems can be caused by excessive amounts of sealant. 

 

Tipfive – “The Squish Factor” – So now we know what not to do with the sealant, we need to know how we can use the sealant.  A 1/16to a ¼” bead is usually sufficient to seal a gasket.  As you are install any part with this small bead of silicone it is important to use direct pressure allowing the bead to “squish” out of the edge.  When doing this, your goal is to have a very small amount of excess silicone showing around the edges.  You want to make sure the silicone bead and excess is consistent and even. When using with a gasket a very thin even layer is all that is need.  This is where the “squish factor” comes into play.  After your component is installed, weather it’s a water pump or an oil pan, having too much excess dripping off when fully tightened is a sign there was too much silicone sealant used.  If there is none showing it is possible not enough was used and if the excess is uneven it is possible the sealing surface is also uneven or the amount used was not contestant.  An even bead or layer is crucial to obtaining a sufficient long lasting seal.

Nice example of a reasonable amount of excess silicone sealant.

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