Evolution of a Restoration Pt.4 From this! To this In the third part to this series we discussed some of the metal work involved with replacing floor pans and sheet metal. What comes next? We need to prep the bare metal, if you choose to use replacement panels I would...
Our Blog
Automotive News week of 5-23
Here are a few things from this past week you may have missed, Gizmodo reports that Tuesday marks the anniversary of the first speeding arrest. Jalopnik was nice enough to remind us why it is a good idea to keep driving classics, google is bringing ads to your...
Evolution of a Restoration pt.3
Evolution of a Restoration pt3 How to go from this, To this, In the previous post, Evolution of a Restoration, we talked about TIG welding and basic plug welding. This week we would like to take you through the process of...
Precision Restoration is looking for experienced craftsmen!
Thanks to our clients and the highly skilled craftsmen employed at Precision Restoration we have continued to grow in our market and are now looking to expand. Precision Restoration is seeking a qualified individual that is highly skilled in metal fabrication...
Automotive History fading away
I think anyone would agree that cars changed the world, they have changed our lives. Being enthusiasts we love cars and appreciate the time and effort a person puts into saving a car and bringing it back to life. Writer Larry Edsall recently posted an...
Delivering 1974 Triumph Spitfire
Designed by Triumphs favorite designer Giovanni Michelotti and named after the famed Battle of Britain fighter, Triumph answered the competition being felt from Autin-Healey and M-G with the Spitfire. While a beautiful design the early models were underpowered but...
Evolution of a Restoration Pt. 2
Evolution of a restoration pt2. Going from this To this In the previous post, Evolution of a restoration pt.1, we discussed tear down, organizing and maintaining an inventory of the parts on hand you will reuse and beginning to determine what parts you will...
Evolution of a restoration
Evolution Ever wonder how a classic goes from this, To this?   It  A lot of planning goes into any project, a complete review of the current status and condition should be performed first. Evaluating what you are going to need, components you may reuse, what you...
Project Update 1971 Ford Torino Convertible
We have significant progress on the 1971 Ford Torino Convertible Restoration! Jim has cut all the necessary pieces so the Torino restoration can now become a convertible. Waylon is cutting the top roof off the 1971 Torino hardtop.
Waylon is making su…
1972 Chevelle Malibu SS Restoration
Back in the day this classic was America’s most popular mid-size car. This automobile was built in Oshawa, ON, rolling off the assembly line with a 350 small block 8 cylinder 175 horsepower engine, 4 barrel carburetor, and L48 RPO (Regular Production Option). It also has a 4-speed manual transmission with original SS Rally wheels.The final year of an SS A-Body design introduced in1968, the fifth year of production for the Chevelle, the1972 Chevelle Malibu SS is one of the rarest Chevelle SS model years, there were only 5,333 produced. This was about one-quarter as many were produced in1971 and just a tenth of how many were made in 1970, when 53,600 Chevelle Malibu SS models were built. It was named after the city Malibu, California. 1972 was the last year popular for Chevelle classic car collectors.
350 Small block V8 engine.
Factory manual 4-speed transmission
This classic car is a full frame off restoration.
Completed custom paint and buff stage with Competition Orange and correct factory SS stripes. Final assembly will begin with chrome and weather-strips.
Originally the interior was white. The newly restored Chevelle SS will have a stock black interior. Stay tuned more to come.
Identifying the type of scratch in your custom paint
67 Cadillac Deville frame off Cadillac restoration
We’re starting working on this big old Cadillac Deville. The Caddy will get the works from a full paint job, to full mechanical restoration and interior restoration. The owner is looking for a vehicle that is going to last a long time in order to hand it down to his children and what better way that to restore this thing from top to bottom.
This 67 Cadillac has had the engine and transmission pulled to send it to the machine shop. The old Caddy’s engine compartment is full of wires and vacuum hose along with a ton of miscellaneous brackets and clips. Before we started we took loads of pictures to give ourselves a nice visual reference for re assembly.
The interior has for the most part been gutted. Pulling the carpet and insulation revealed some rust on the floor pans that was not visible from the underside. This is something that will eventually be addressed after we have stripped the rest of the body.
As of now the body is on its way down to nothing. We’re removing all of the trim and the body panels will eventually go. We will eventually pull the body from the frame to thoroughly clean blast and undercoat the bottom side. At this time we will also be painting the frame before it goes back together.
This is major project with many different aspects and will be an awesome car to drive as it floats down the freeway. The Cadilliac restoration will be one to note a prime example of “they don’t make ‘em like the used to”.
Sanding and buffing basics
A high quality paint jobs is nothing without the tedious task of sanding and buffing the clear coat. A highly skilled painter can make a paint job look good without sanding and buffing, but those extra steps are what can take good to great. Sanding and buffing is vital to any high quality paint job and these some of the steps we take to meet and exceed our standards.
It all starts with the paint job. Minimal dirt, no runs, and an even texture make sanding the clear coat that much easier. You must start with a clean surface. The number one thing that will cause problems with buffing is dirt in your sand paper. The foreign dirt and debris can get caught between the paper and clear coat and will cause a scratch that will not buff out. Blowing off the surface with compressed air and cleaning with a damp towel will remove the chance for contamination.
Different people have different ways of sanding and buffing a car. People have differing opinions on what grit paper to use, how many steps to take, and to dry sand or wet sand. We use a combination of different grit papers and wet and dry sanding to obtain the level we are looking for.
The first stage starts with 1000 grit paper. The paper made by 3M is often referred to as a film. This film is attached to a finishing dual action sander (called a D/A). It is important at this stage to not sand too much. As finishing sand papers go, 1000 grit is pretty course, so off of sharp body lines and edges is essential to keep from sanding through the clear coat. The 3M film is designed to use dry, so using compressed air will help the surface clean. Blowing off the paint surface and sand paper is important to saying free of dirt build up.
The D/A is used to “knock down” the dirt nibs in the paint, and even out the texture on the larger surfaces. Replacing paper often is important to keep the cutting surface fresh and consistent. Sanding needs to take place in steps working from 1000 and moving to a finer grit like 1500 and then on to 2000 grit. Use these finer grit papers in the same manner as the first and with each step sanding closer and closer to the edges. The finer grit papers help smooth the scratches from the courser grits which will in turn make buffing easier.
The proper use of the D/A is also very important. Using the correct interface pads, proper air pressure, and keeping the moisture out of the system will help keep the dust from collecting and balling up on the paper. The sander should always stay moving and off of sharp lines and edges. Paper should be free of rips and tears. Anything other that paper to paint has the potential to create an un buffable scratch.
Before buffing, a final sand using a 3000 grit paper that is attached to a foam back up pad is used. The 3000 grit paper can be used wet. It’s best to used water from a squirt bottle. The water helps keep the surface lubricated and clean. The 3000 grit pad has very little cutting ability. It acts as almost a pre-buff, leveling out the sanded surfaces from the courser grit papers. After sanded all surfaces should be cleaned and wiped down with a soft wet cloth then dried. This will help make sure all dirt nibs have been sanded smooth and all surfaces have been sanded evenly.
Buffing also involves lots of practice and skill, but starting slow will help you get a feel for the tool and the paint. Using a variable speed 8” buffer with a wool pad start slow and spread the compound over a smaller area. Keep the compound from slinging across the room. Not only does it make a mess, but will stain walls and paint if left unclean.
Buffing creates heat. This heat can burn the paint if you’re not careful. Using too little compound won’t bring the paint to a shine and run the risk of burning the paint. Too much compound can etch into the paint and create a build up that can be hard to buff off. A good rule can be about a 4” bead of compound to one square foot of buffing surface. The biggest thing to know is to keep moving. Staying in place will only cause the paint to heat up and burn.
After you have made it through with the heavy cut compound and a wool pad, there can be a series of steps that can be taken to remove swirl marks and the finer scratches left from the wool pad. A once over with a foam pad and compound, then a softer foam pad and polish, followed by a hand polish will make your fresh paint shine like no other. When finished, clean all compound out of the jambs, clean up any sludge from sanding, and make sure all excess compound is cleaned from any cracks and crevasses.
Sanding and buffing is a skill that takes time to learn. It’s not for the faint of heart. When done correctly it will take a mediocre paint job to the next level with a little bit of time and elbow grease.
1968 Z/28 Camaro Muscle Car – Driver Restoration
1968 Camaro Muscle Car – Driver Restoration
This ’68 Camaro is on the books for a paint job and interior restoration. This muscle car is having the paint stripped and interior gutted for now. Even though the paint looked pretty good we still wanted to discover what was underneath.
Overall the Camaro is pretty solid. It had quite a bit of unnecessary body filler and a few older rust patches. I have said it over and over, but this is the number one reason to strip a car. It is important to find the problem areas before they blow up on you down the road.
As of right now we have tore down the body, removed the interior, stripped the paint, acid etched primed, and sealed the body.
We will reevaluate the body work and start making the proper repairs before we send this Camaro back to the paint department.
1987 Buick Grand National is getting a paint job face lift
This T-top ’87 Buick Grand National came in for a face lift. The vehicle had been the unfortunate victim of a key job. Luckily the car was in such nice shape to begin with, a paint job is all that was in order for this classic 80’s muscle car.
This paint job was about as simple as they come when it comes to paint. The first step involved fixing the key scratches. Most of the small key scratches came out with just a heavy sanding. The remaining scratches were repaired with just a skim coat of filler. The Grand Nationals paint was in such nice shape it wasn’t even necessary to strip.
We almost completely dismantled the body to avoid any paint lifting or peeling issues down the road. We also repaired just a few dents and dings this thing received throughout its life. After a few good coats of primer it was ready to sand and paint.
Back to black was the plan. Having all the little bumper pieces, mirrors, and fillers painted give the face lift it deserved. After the clear coat, and a run through the bake cycle, sanding and buffing was next on the list. No paint job is complete without being slicked down with a good sanding and buffing.
We’ll put the Grand National back together except for the emblems. After a final buff and polish we’ll stick these emblems back on and send it down the road.
Winterizing your Classic Car, Antique Car, or Muscle Car
Prepare your car for the winter.
Winter time is just about here and for some the driving season is almost over. Many cars are parked and never touched until the spring. These are just a few tips for winterizing you classic car and storing you car for an extended period of time. To ensure you will be ready for the road next spring.
Fuel
One of the first things to go during an extended storage is the fuel. The properties of gasoline can break down within six months. Gasoline that has gone bad can cause a multitude of problems from poor performance, to clogged fuel filters, and even causing internal problems within a carburetor. The life of the fuel can be extended buy using a fuel stabilizer such as Sta-bil. When used correctly the life of the fuel can be extended for up to two years.
Add the fuel stabilizer to your fuel before filling up. This will help to ensure it is mixed in thoroughly. It seems strange to add fuel just before storing, but an empty tank will allow air and moisture to exposed metal surfaces causing possible corrosion and rust. Just before storing add your full stabilizer and fill your tank. After you have filled your tank, it is a good idea to put on a few miles to allow the treated fuel to circulate through the system.
Maintenance
Regular maintenance is never a bad idea before storage. Changing you oil, oil filter, transmission fluid, and axel lubricants will help keep any dirt and debris out of the system, some of which can break down the viscosity and lubricating properties of the oil.
If your engine is completely sealed before you store your vehicle, don’t be too surprised to see a few drips of oil the next spring after you drive is a few time. Some seals can dry out over an extended period of sitting, causing minor leaks as they expand and seal after a few times of being oil soaked and heated.
In colder temperatures it is very important to make sure your cooling system is filled with good antifreeze. It’s a good idea to have you coolant good for up to at least -20*. This will help any freezing over the cold winter months and protect the radiator hoses and engine block form cracking or popping a freeze plug.
During periods of long storage, its recommend that you remove the battery cables from the battery. Clocks and other items will eventually cause the battery to drain and electrolysis will cause the terminals to corrode. With the battery unhooked a battery tender is a good way to keep you battery in top shape.
Tires
If possible it’s a good idea to put your car on jack stands. After extended periods of sitting, tires can form flat spots. These flat spots can ruin a set of tires, by throwing them out of balance and keeping the tires from holding the weight of the car will help prevent these flat spots.
Interior
The best way to protect you interior over the winter months is to give it a thorough cleaning. Critters and mice like to find their way into the interior of cars, and cleaning up a food source like small crumbs underneath a seat will reduce the chances of a live in guest.
Leather seats should be conditioned. Vinyl dashes, seats, and door panels, should also be wiped down thoroughly with a vinyl and plastic protectant. This will help preserve these pieces as best as possible.
Exterior
I have never been a fan of car covers. Far too often I’ve seen scratched cars because of covers, but during long storage a cover is not a bad idea. When used carefully car coves will help tremendously to protect the paint, but when the proper steps are not taken a car cover can do more harm than good.
The first step is to clean your car thoroughly. Remove any tar or bug guts from rocker panels and grills. These things will stain paint and chrome so make sure you have taken your time when cleaning. After your car has cleaned and free from foreign objects, apply a good wax. This wax will help the paint when in contact with a car cover.
A water proof cover with a soft underside is the best option. Make sure you examine the cover for dirt and debris. When a vehicle is stored indoors is not as critical to fully secure a cover, but in outdoor situations it’s vital. Make sure the cover snug and free from loose fitting material. In windy situations the extra mater can blow and flap in the wind. This movement between the body and cover will eventually cause scratches and possibly wear through the paint.
Exhausted from bad exhaust? – Good materials make good exhaust
Exhausted from bad exhaust? – Good materials make good exhaust
The sound and looks of an exhaust system are just as important as any other system on a vehicle. Having the sound you want can give your car a whole new personality, and add to the character of your ride. Avoiding leaks, rattles, and vibrations are essential to hearing the full effects of your exhaust system rather than hearing the noise it creates.
An exhaust system starts at the manifolds and headers. Quality parts are just the beginning. The first step is to ensure you have a clean and true sealing surface from the head to the manifold. This involves an inspection of the parts being installed. Big grooves, cracks, and uneven sealing surface will be sure to cause a leak, so taking the proper precautions to seal and ensure bolts are tight will help keep away those annoying header and manifold leaks.
Headers are notorious for leaking caused bolts backing off. That’s why it’s a good idea to use locking systems like Stage 8 Locking Fasteners manufactures. These are designed to prevent backing off and will help seal thing for the long term.
The type of material used is also crucial to keeping an exhaust system working well long term. Aluminized and stainless tubing are the best routes to go. Aluminized pipe is very common and is the lesser expensive option. Stainless is an even better way to go, but the down fall is cost. Stainless exhaust can be polished to a shine so this is a great option to add to the underside of your show car. Not every shop will bend and weld stainless exhaust systems as it uses special benders and highly trained welders.
The premade exhaust system is something that can be very enticing. The pre-bent system comes with its down falls. In many cases these systems are poor fitting and require additional bending and welding. True “bolt on” systems are hard to come by and don’t compare to a system that is made right there at the car. For the “do it yourselfer” a pre-bent exhaust system can come in handy, but you should always proceed with caution when purchasing and installing these systems.
A quality exhaust system is also properly secured. In a factory restoration, original style hangers and brackets are used. In a custom application, the system needs to be secured with plenty of clearance from floors, cross members, fluid lines, and axels. As the engine torques and vibrates, or axels move, clearances change which can easily cause annoying rattles and vibration. All hangers and bracket need to be rubber insulated with enough play and movement to clear any solid surfaces.
Whether you want you ride quite or loud, in order to enjoy the sound of that engine, you will need to make your exhaust system free of leaks and rattles. This is easily done by inspecting part, securing mufflers and pipes, and making sure you have plenty of clearance. When broken down its pretty simple stuff, but having an exhaust system custom made is always a better choice over your pre-fabricated, pre-made, off the shelf exhaust in a box.
A Driver quality isn’t low quality
Driver quality doesn’t mean low quality
Not everyone wants a complete custom vehicle with every option and every detail addressed with a fine tooth comb. Many are in the market for a “Driver” quality job. The fact of the matter is sometimes the only difference between the “Driver” quality and “Show” quality come in the details. Details are what can take a car over the top and addressing some of these details, will surely make you “driver” stand out.
Driver quality does not have to mean low quality. Many people feel as though by describing a job to be driver quality it suggests that many systems do not need to be fixed. This can be true many cases, but in many others not addressing issues may not only be ineffective to cost, but eventually become a safety hazard. I will list a few of these things that can be often overlooked when “Driver” quality is suggested.
.
Paint and body is the number one thing that is often thought to reduce cost. This is true in many cases. An additional block sand and primer, or re-sanding and clearing to give a deeper gloss, or taking the time to make sure every little paint imperfection is removed are some of the things that can be done to take a paint job to the next level.
Stripping a car is another factor that is sometimes questioned for a driver quality job. Many people feel as though there paint looks pretty nice and just needs to be buffed out. This may be the case, but if a paint job is in order, the only way to fix it is to fix it right. Meaning that the paint still needs to be stripped, rust still needs to be fixed, and dents and dings need to be straightened. That little ding now is only highlighted by a fresh paint job.
The under body is another place that is often to be thought of as a place that can be left untouched for a driver quality job. In many cases the under body can be totally left alone, in many others rust in the floor boards prevents from leaving these areas original. Not repairing a rusty floor board and making the paint look new is not the smartest choice.
When it comes to the mechanical system on a “driver”, main concerns should be safety and reliability. Safety is usually overlooked first. This includes things like suspension bushings, rusty brake lines, or old wiring. These are all systems than can be potentially hazardous if not addressed. If a vehicle is being driven on a regular basis, it needs to be much more than just functional.
Reliability is also another aspect of a driver. The term Driver comes from the description that someone wants to “drive” the vehicle on a regular basis. This being said, reliability is also key. Things like major oil leaks, rebuilding carbs and fuel systems, and ensuring the charging system is working properly are essential for ensuring the vehicle will start easily every time.
The main goal is to make your vehicle fully functional and looking presentable. A driver restoration can be a great way to get your classic or muscle car back on the road. But a driver restoration is still a “restoration” and repairing things right, fixing them to last is still at the top of the list. A driver restoration is much more than just making a vehicle functional. It takes smart thinking and good planning to ensure the investment is worth it.
